Epic West Greenland and Baffin Island

Iqaluit/ᐃᖃᓗᐃᑦ (meaning 'Many Fish' in Inuktitut) is the bustling capital city of Nunavut. While situated at a similar latitude to Nuuk, the city couldn’t be more different. The western side of the Davis Strait is significantly colder than the east, and the landscape around Iqaluit is subsequently much more stark than comparatively warm Greenland. Nonetheless, this wild region has a rugged beauty all its own. Much like Nuuk, the area was used as a rich fishing ground by nomadic Inuit groups for thousands of years (hence it's Inuktitut name) prior to the arrival of the first Europeans, who passed through during their search for the fabled Northwest Passage. The settlement of Iqaluit itself was founded as Frobisher Bay by the Hudson's Bay Company, and expanded during the Second World War, as the USA built the Frobisher Bay Air Base - a vital stopover for transatlantic aircraft. The provision of services and population in the area expanded as the USA invested in the area as part of the Distant Early Warning Line radar system, and many Inuit moved to the area as the Canadian Government invested in permanent services in the town, which was renamed Iqaluit in 1987. 

Iqaluit is the largest city in Nunavut, home to roughly 8,000 people. As the administrative, educational and transport hub of Nunavut, the city is rich in history and culture. Watch out in particular for the old Hudsons Bay Company buildings near the shore in nearby Apex/Niaqunngut, which date back to the city’s foundation, the igloo-shaped Arctic Cathedral, the space age Iqaluit high school (built to withstand the brutal winter conditions in the city), and the various breathtaking sculptures, murals and other works by Inuit artists around town. With a unique blend of Canadian and Inuit culture, Iqaluit is a fascinating city to explore – poutine is served alongside fresh Arctic char, politicians sit on sealskin chairs in the territory's legislature, and narwhal tusks form the cross in the city's igloo-shaped cathedral. Highlights for visitors include the Nunatta Sunakkutaangit Museum and the Unikkaarvik Visitors Centre, which detail the fascinating history and culture of the region, and the nearby Sylvia Grinnell National Park offers a peaceful riverside refrane from the busy city. 

Situated in the calm waters of the vast Kuugarjuaq fjord off Cumberland Sound, Pangnirtung surely occupies one of the most scenic locations in the Arctic. A small town nestled amid sweeping glacier-capped mountains and miles of pristine tundra, Pangnirtung represents what most people think of when considering Inuit hamlets in Canada. Even the place names here drip with description; Kuugarjuaq roughly means 'Becoming a Large River', while Pangniqtuq, the Inuktitut name of the town means 'The Place of Bull Caribou' - although the town is often known throughout Canada simply as 'Pang'.  

The local Inuit in the region have only had contact with Europeans in the last 100 years; the settlement was established as a Hudson’s Bay Company trading post, around which the modern town grew as government services were established in the area. Today home to around 1,500 people. The town is today known both for its outstanding natural beauty which have earned it the epithet 'the Switzerland of the Arctic', and the enterprise of the local residents. Government initiatives have promoted the growth of Inuit Art in Pangnirtung, and artworks from the town such as carvings, prints and woven goods are sought after worldwide - expecially the famous Pang Hat, the closely knitted iconic headware of Nunavut. 

Nestled below Disko Island’s 1,000-metre mountains, we pull into port in a beautifully sheltered natural harbour. The place was aptly named Godhavn (“Good Harbour”) in Danish, while its Greenlandic name “Qeqertarsuaq” simply means “The Big Island”. 

For most of Greenland’s modern history, Godhavn was the political and economic capital of North Greenland (while Godthåb, now Nuuk, served this role in South Greenland). Its importance was due to the vast economic activity generated by whaling in Disko Bay, the preeminent Arctic industry since the 16th Century. As the whaling industry collapsed in the early 1900s, Godhavn lost its political status as all government functions moved south to Godthåb/Nuuk, and the town was forced to reinvent itself, changing its name to Qeqertarsuaq in 1979 . Today, hunting and fishing are the main industries in Qeqertarsuaq, while tourism is becoming increasingly important. Ferries arrive in the town daily in summer from around Disko Bay, while in winter, access is only by helicopter. 

Qeqertarsuaq’s sweeping red-and-black basalt mountains are radically different to the rolling granite hills which characterize much of Greenland, and provide a much richer soil. Despite being situated well above the Arctic Circle, this rich volcanic soil and the area’s mild microclimate make it much more green and lush compared to the rest of the country. Locals from all over Disko Bay come to the island in summer to hunt and collect angelica, herbs and mushrooms, and the stunning rock formations and black sand beaches attract visitors from all over the world. The town itself is typically Greenlandic, with quaint multicoloured homes, a splendid museum, and the unique octagonal church (built in the Norwegian stave style). With excellent hiking opportunities, friendly locals, and a fascinating place in regional history, Qeqertarsuaq has a lot to offer. From here, we set sail towards Ilulissat, the largest city in Disko Bay and the Iceberg Capital of the World.